It’s
almost time to start prepping your garden beds. The days are starting to get
warmer, the sun is shining longer and leaves are just beginning to pop out. As
a gardener, nothing feels more like spring to me than getting my beds in order
for transplanting. Bed preparation is extremely important for the overall
success of your garden. Whether it is a new garden plot or an existing one,
there are a number of things you can do to promote a healthy, productive
garden. First of all, when trying to determine where your garden will be and
how to prep it consider a soil test. Many land grant institutions and universities provide soil testing services for a small fee. Soil tests are quick and easy tests
that can
provide the pH, nutrient profile and soil type of your location. You can also
have your soil tested for lead, which in urban gardens, can be a problem
particularly when growing root crops. In MI, soil testing is available through the Michigan State University Soil testing facility.
When getting
beds ready for spring, the most important thing to remember is patience.
Working your soil before it is ready will result in compacted plots and/or
chunky soil. If you grab a handful of soil and it retains its shape after you
let go of it, the soil is too wet. As a bulletin from Utah State University
says “Test
this way: take a handful of soil from a 3 inch depth. Squeeze it firmly in the
hand. Drop it on a side-walk. Unless the ball shatters, do not try to rototill.” If it’s a new bed however, there are a
few things you can do while waiting for it to dry out enough to till. Perennial weeds such as
grasses or Creeping Charlie can quickly overrun a new garden if not properly
removed. If removing grass, the sod in addition to the roots should be removed to minimize regrowth. Weeds can be removed
by hand or you can use an herbicide such as Roundup.
Roundup degrades quickly in the soil and should have no effect on your
seedlings when you transplant in a few weeks. If applying an herbicide, only
apply when the temperature is ~50 °F or higher. Herbicides work best when weeds
are actively growing.
Wait until the weeds are removed or dead (7-10 days if using an herbicide) before tilling up the area. If possible, allow the tilled beds to sit for a week or two prior to planting. Many weed seeds require light to germinate, and tilling provides that needed light. After a week or two you can use another application of Glyphosate (Roundup) to kill off the new weeds. Alternatively, you can always hand weed them as well.
Wait until the weeds are removed or dead (7-10 days if using an herbicide) before tilling up the area. If possible, allow the tilled beds to sit for a week or two prior to planting. Many weed seeds require light to germinate, and tilling provides that needed light. After a week or two you can use another application of Glyphosate (Roundup) to kill off the new weeds. Alternatively, you can always hand weed them as well.
Contributing sources:
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/perennials/bedprep.cfm
http://easttexasgardening.tamu.edu/tips/land/newGardenBed07.html
http://www.extension.purdue.edu/gardentips/county/countyallen.html
http://extension.usu.edu/files/publications/factsheet/HG_H_01.pdf
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