Corn smut anyone?

When your sweet corn has tasseled and those ears are starting to swell and grow, it's a constant battle to keep it free from bugs and animals. Raccoons and squirrels can decimate those ears just before you get to them, and somehow they manage to make it look like the corn is still there. If you manage to avoid them, then there is always the chance that under those husks lurks a corn earworm. However, there is another insidious organism waiting to hijack your corn. It's called corn smut, and it's been written about by scientists for over 100 years. This particular disease looks like some sort of alien growth bursting out of your corn (either the ears or the tassels).

Silvery gray galls of the corn smut on an ear of corn

What causes it?

It's caused by the fungal pathogen Ustilago maydis. This pathogen can infect the ears, tassels, stalks and the leaves of corn. They infect the host (in this case corn) tissue and they cause tumors to start to form. These are light gray/silver to a medium grayish-purple depending on the age of the tumor. The deeper color is the spores that are getting ready to be released.  

Hot dry weather followed by a nice wet period seems to be great for disease formation. However, some sources say that cool conditions and dry weather followed by a rain event can promote disease. Regardless, last year we saw a lot of smut, and, after my last garden harvest, this year seems to be another great year for the disease.

Close up of a smut gall, you can see the dark spores just under the silvery surface

How to manage it

Proper fertilization is important for minimizing disease severity, with higher amounts of disease being seen in over or under-fertilized corn (Aydogdu 2011). If you do get the disease the bet thing you can do is remove the infected tissues BEFORE the dark spores are being released. If the ears are infected you can eat them (see the next paragraph) or you can bag them up and throw them in the trash (not your compost). If some of the galls have black spores being released, go ahead and bag those up and throw them away. You'll need to rotate with a different crop for at least 2 years to manage the disease properly. The Virginia Tech Cooperative Extension office has a good list of sweet corn varieties with some level of resistance/tolerance in one of their bulletins as does an Oregon State University Extension bulletin:

Argent

Brilliance

Fantasia

Pristine

Seneca (Sensation, Snow Prince, Sugar Prince)

Silver (King, Prince)

Summer Flavor 72W

I have never grown any of these varieties, but what I can say is that the variety (I'll let you know what it is as soon as I find the package) I planted this year was quite susceptible. If you want to produce smut however, this might be a great variety to grow.

Fun tidbits

Believe it or not the disease (if you catch it early) is considered a delicacy and is served in many restaurants under the name huitlacoche or cuitlacoche. For those of you wanting to try it, you'll need to harvest it when the galls are still a silvery gray color. Huitlacoche can be used in soups, appetizers, tacos or served plain - here are some recommendations from the University of Illinois. Now before you go grimacing at the thought of eating it, think about it. This is a fungus, mushrooms are fungi. If you'd eat a mushroom, you should be willing to try huitlacoche.

 So if you can avoid getting this disease, that's great! But if you can't, go ahead and be adventurous and make the best of it.

Aydogdu M. and Boyraz N. 2011. Effects of nitrogen and organic fertilization on corn smut (Ustilago maydis DC Corda.). African Journal of Agricultural Research 6: 4539-4543

Skibbe DS., Doehlemann G., Fernandes J., and Walbot V. 2010. Maize tumors caused by Ustilago maydis require organ-specific genes in host and pathogen. Science. 328:89-92

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is probably the most common vegetable disease urban gardeners encounter. Those powdery little spots appear mid summer, and by the end of the summer they’ve covered entire leaves with their fuzzy white powder. While you might not be so sad to see those overly prolific zucchini decimated, the cucumbers and pumpkins won’t be far behind. So what causes this disease? Why do we get it every single year? And what can we do about it?

What causes it?

Powdery mildew is caused by a fungal, “obligate” pathogen. So what does that actually mean? An obligate pathogen means that it requires a living host, in this case a plant, to reproduce and survive.  Think of it like this: the pathogen wants to hijack the plant's resources for its own benefit, instead of producing those delicious vegetables. This lifestyle strategy is going to affect how we manage the disease and how it infects your plants. While powdery mildew is most common on cucurbits like cucumbers, squashes and melons other plants such as tomatoes, onions, peppers, chards and even sugar peas. However, many of these powdery mildew diseases are caused by different fungal species. Because powdery mildews are obligate pathogens this often means they have a very specialized relationship with their host plant. The powdery mildew on your squash is going to be different than the powdery mildew on your tomatoes, and it can NOT go from one to the other. I'll be providing information about powdery mildew management in general, but some specifics might not be appropriate for all species.

Where does it come from?

So I’ve just told you that powdery mildew is an obligate pathogen and it requires a living host. You’re first thought is probably, “If it requires living plant tissue, and isn’t living in the soil over the winter, how does it show up every year?”  Powdery mildew is an airborne pathogen. It’s spread as air currents flow across the U.S. Just because places like Michigan have winter, not all places do. Powdery mildew can survive in those places, and then as the weather warms it can slowly creep its way farther north. Even if we could somehow prevent it from moving up from the south, greenhouse grown plants could be another source of the pathogen. 

Early symptoms of powdery mildew. The small white spots can be rubbed off (but don't rub them otherwise you can spread the pathogen).

What does it look like?

The symptoms of powdery mildew are pretty much what you would expect. They start as small white powdery spots, sometimes they’re also a bit chlorotic (yellow), on the upper sides of the leaf and as time progresses those spots will expand and spread. Often lower leaves show symptoms first.

Conditions that favor the disease

Powdery mildews like high relative humidity, without a lot of a leaf wetness (Granke et al 2012). This is one of the reasons the first leaves to show symptoms are generally the lower leaves. The lower leaves are more protected from rainfall and are buffered by the surrounding leaves so they often have a higher relative humidity than upper leaves in the canopy. This is one reason why adequate plant spacing is so important for minimizing diseases. Low humidity promotes spore dispersal (like tiny airborne seeds), while the high humidity promotes infection (Clemson). Temperature can also be a factor - powdery mildew does not like it too hot, so those hot hot days are not going to be good for the pathogen.

Later symptoms of powdery mildew. This shot is of a leaf that was lower in the leaf canopy than the top picture. I moved the top leaves aside and hiding underneath was this plethora of powdery mildew spores.

Management

While prevention is the best way to manage a disease, at this point in the growing season minimizing the effect of disease is the next best thing. Whether you want to use chemical sprays or organic methods, early detection of the disease (through scouting) is critical for successful management. Studies have shown that sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and whole milk can help minimize the growth and spread of powdery mildew. Baking soda, when used at a rate of 0.5% (weight per volume) combined with an oil, like SunSpray Ultra-Fine Spray Oil (also at a rate of 0.5%), reduced disease severity when sprayed on the plant's leaves (Ziv and Zitter 1992). Commercially available products like Kaligreen (82% potassium bicarbonate) can also help suppress the disease (Mcgrath and Shishkoff 1999). Whole milk, not skim, reduced disease severity at a higher rate than just baking soda in a more recent study by Ferrandino and Smith (2007).  The authors used a 50% milk to water spray, and did state that good coverage was needed, however that the cost may be prohibitive for large areas.

While these are options that should be readily available in most households, these are not as effective as chemical fungicides when the disease severity is high. So if you plan to use these products then you should definitely be careful to scout frequently and do your best to catch it early. If the infected leaves are few and far between you could easily remove a few leaves here and there. But likely you will have latent infections (when the plant is infected but you can’t see the disease symptoms), and you’ll have more diseased leaves soon.

Don't confuse variegation with powdery mildew. This squash has variegated (patterns of light and dark) leaves, but no powdery mildew.

Remember, powdery mildews need a living host. This means that the pathogen’s goal is to make your plants make food for them instead of you. Your goal is to keep ahead of the pathogen so that your plants can spend all their photosynthetic energy on making those delicious veggies you want to eat.

References contributing information in this post:

Clemson University Cooperative Extension bulletin

Ferrandino F.J., and Smith V.L. 2007. The effect of milk-based foliar sprays on yield components of field pumpkins with powdery mildew. Crop Protection 26:657 -663.

Granke L.L., Crawford L.E., and Hausbeck M.K. 2012. Factors affecting airborne concentrations of Podosphaera xanthii conidia and severity of gerbera powdery mildew. Hortscience 47:1068-1072

Mcgrath M.T, and Shishkoff N. 1999. Evaluation of biocompatible products for managing cucurbit powdery mildew. Crop Protection 18:471-478.

Ziv O., and Zitter T.A. 1992. Effects of bicarbonates and film-forming polymers on cucurbit foliar diseases. Plant Disease 76:513-517

Spider mites

With the hot weather we recently had, you might be starting to notice diseases or insects in your garden. One common garden pest during hot dry conditions is the spider mite. The two-spotted spider mite is actually an arachnid (not an insect), and is quite tiny being ¼ mm or less in length. These tiny little arachnids have piercing mouthparts that puncture the cells of your plants as they suck out the juices. This creates the “flecking” appearance on leaves. They have a broad host range, and are capable of colonizing many common garden plants including: eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, squashes, cucumbers, corn, many houseplants, etc. Adult spider mites overwinter in the soil, and lay their eggs on suitable host plants in the spring and summer. When weather conditions are suitable, the eggs hatch and begin to feed on the plant. When conditions are just right spider mite populations can bloom in no time. One day there are a couple of leaves with spider mites and within a week you can have an entire plant covered. Spider mites, as their name suggests, can spin disorganized webbing over the plant when infestations are high. This is one way to easily identify them.   

The splotchy patches of yellowing leaves are a good symptom of spider mites.

Symptoms and signs

Spider mite infestations are very easy to diagnose. If you see leaves that are becoming flecked with patchy yellowing, or exhibit bronzing then your plant is a good spider mite candidate host. Spider mites live on the underside of the leaf, so to look for them you’ll need to flip the leaf over. It is possible to see them with the naked eye, but a hand lens with at least 10x magnification is best for a good view. If you don’t have a hand lens, and even if you do, you can take a piece of white paper and shake a leaf over it. If you have spider mites, they should fall onto the paper and you should be able to see them begin to slowly crawl.

Close up of infested leaf

Management options

Not all mites are bad though. One of the top beneficial insects for controlling spider mites is other mites! If you smear the mite on a piece of white paper and it is green, it’s likely the parasite. If it’s orange or yellow it is likely a beneficial.  You can buy beneficial insects from companies like Koppert that specialize in biological controls, encourage beneficials through native plants or successive flowering plants. Or you can raise your own mites using subset of the predatory mites and growing them in bran. This can take a bit of time, but it very convenient for controlling mites over multiple months in a large area. Other beneficial insects like lady bugs, minute pirate bugs, and lacewings can also be used to control spider mite infestations with varying degrees of effectiveness.

Turn an infested leaf over and you can see the grainy appearance of the spider mites, their dust, eggs and frass. If you look really closely you can see yellow spider mites with little red dots on their bums.

If the infestation is light you can try to control mites using insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, miticide sprays, or common soaps (Ivory and Murphy’s oil soap work well). If you’re using soaps or oils, don’t apply while the weather is hot and sunny because these can damage your plants if you’re not careful. With soaps in particular, you can typically apply with a hand sprayer and rinse an hour after application. The soapy water creates a film around the spider mite, suffocating it according to entomologist Dan Hulbert. Adequate watering is important to help your plants deal with the added stress of the spider mites. Some sources cite spraying water on the plants to help control mild infestations of spider mites.

Sources contributing information to this post:

Clemson University Extension bulletin

The Ohio State University Extension bulletin

Virginia Tech Extension bulletin

Colorado State University Extension bulletin

Insects and Diseases in the Garden: Scouting 101

As the summer progresses pests are likely to become a part of your garden. You might have already seen those faint spots that foretell the powdery mildew that will soon be visible on most of your zucchini plants. I know I have. Managing garden insects and diseases is essential for a long bountiful harvest. Even the most prolific variety of tomato or zucchini can have low yields if their resources are spent fighting leaf spots and rots. Commercial growers have a wide range of chemical and cultural controls that they can employ to manage diseases. Home gardeners, on the other hand, have limited chemical options; and most prefer to abstain from chemical controls entirely. This limits us to cultural options, insecticidal soaps, and some sprays, combined into an integrated pest management or IPM approach. IPM uses a combination of multiple techniques to manage pests below a certain threshold. This means that you’ll still probably get disease and insects, but the emphasis will be on keeping it at low levels.

While the slug is no where to be seen, the damage is clear. Low levels can be tolerated, but too much damage and yield becomes reduced.

 While much can be done with plant spacing, attracting beneficials, and rotating crops, at this point in the season we can't change those things. So, we are in defense mode. The first step in defense-mode management is going to be scouting. If you can catch the disease or insect early on, you have a better chance of minimizing its effects. Scouting involves walking through your garden plot and looking for symptoms or signs of disease and insects. Symptoms could be wilting or yellowing leaves, a dark leaf spot, or maybe a discolored fruit. Just to be clear, not every spot you see is going to be a disease, not every insect is damaging, and not every time a leaf wilts is it going to mean you have a root rot. But if there has been plenty of rain and a plant is still wilting, that is a good indicator that you might have a disease. 

These chlorotic (yellowing) leaves could be a symptom of insects, disease or nutrient deficiency.

 Scouting should be done every week. Typically garden plots are small enough that you should be able to find the time to walk through them weekly. It could even be while you are pulling weeds or harvesting. When you scout try to look at both the tops and undersides of the leaves (many insects hide underneath the canopy), and if you see something suspicious make note of it. Diseases can progress very quickly when weather conditions are suitable, and some insects like aphids can have explosive growth in their populations. I went to one commercial grower’s field that was covered in rotting fruit, and he swore that he had been out scouting last week and everything looked healthy. Later that same week though, the weather conditions became perfect for the disease (and the pathogen was present in his field) and the entire field was lost. 

Just a week ago a single leaf from this plant was wilted. Now the whole vine is collapsing.

If properly and consistently done, scouting can help us to identify and start managing small problems before they become huge problems.

Disease guides are ready!

As you may, or may not, know I've been working on a small guide to help home gardeners identify common vegetable diseases. Well the wait is over, the printers have cooled, and they're finally ready. If you're in the Lansing area there is a disease workshop with the Lansing Garden Project at Foster Park on Thursday July 11, 2013 at the Garden Project Resource Center 2401 Marcus St. Lansing, MI 48912 from 6pm to 7:30pm. We'll be distributing these tiny pocket guides and diagnostic hand lenses to workshop participants. More workshops are being scheduled for the Detroit and Flint areas, so if you miss this one there are others. If you're not in the MI area, but would like one, email me and I can send you a PDF.